CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
The Railway in Ruins
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The 1930's mark the waning years of the Mount Lowe Railway. The glamor and novelty had worn off and all that was left was a quaint little hideaway which could only be enjoyed by a few who could afford it. So it was with any of the trail camps along the Angeles Forest. This type of interest which flourished in the 20's fell off dramatically in the 30's. In 1925 a concrete block annex had been added to the Mount Lowe Tavern which at least added to the number of guests that could be accommodated at the only lodging available along the line. The ride from downtown cost $2.50, but even the $2.00 discounted rate was more than what people of the depression period could consider as dispensable. This was not a period for such luxury. Even a nickel ride on a street car was considered extravagant. Some even purport that the Tavern was a common place for an unfaithful husband to carry on with his affairs. As one put it, " the place was practically a bordello." Realize, too, that the original idea for this type of railway was a scenic ride along the mountain crest, as a Mount Wilson trip would have provided. The MLR just disappeared into an anonymous crease of the canyons. But the attraction did survive 45 years with an impeccable safety record. The beginning of the end came in September 0f 1936 when an electrical fire broke out in the kitchen's refrigeration system and the entire site was set aflame. The Tavern was deemed a total loss, and even though plans were scribbled down to replace it, issues of preparing a new site with ample watershed and fire safety caused them to abandon rebuilding. |
All that remained of the Tavern is the shell of the annex (seen left) which was the only concrete structure on the site, and of course the large rock wall which backed the original part of the structure along with its fireplace, kitchen alcove and section of concrete flooring. The railroad still had its operating franchise, and as long as it kept a regular schedule of trips from top to bottom, it could keep it. Caretakers were housed at the sites and continued to protect what was left of the property. In November of 1937, however, the Pacific Electric Rwy applied for abandonment. Rushing to be the last of enthusiasts to ride the Mount Lowe Railway, the Railroad Boosters Club (today known as the Pacific Railroad Society), offered to pay for a final excursion run which they made on December 5, 1937. Still the railroad continued to operate through February of 1938. March 1, 2, and 3 of 1938 saw one of the greatest rainfalls ever to besiege the Greater Los Angeles Area. The ensuing flood caused catastrophic amounts of damage to businesses, residents and unprotected areas of the national forests. The MLR badly fell prey to the torrential downpour washing away trestles and rails and stranding the caretakers on Echo for a good ten days before help could reach them. After this, everyone was ordered off the hill, and the franchise, as well as everything else that was left standing, was abandoned. Buildings, trains, beds, photo plates, everything was left to the elementsand the vandals. |
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Above is an aerial shot of the Mount Echo ruins, the most dramatic and interpretive ruin site on the railway. Seen here is closely the condition in which this author first saw the ruins on his hike in 1959. The castleated portion of the Incline Powerhouse tower was plainly visible from down the hill. The photo at the top of the page well depicts how the structures appeared in the late 50's and early 60's. back to top Note in the photo above the foundations of the Echo Mountain House (upper right section), the stairway which lead up to its porch, and the similar steps next to the Incline rails where passengers could step off. The entire line was contracted out for scrap during World War II. Only that portion of steel or wood that was not easily extracted was left. Slowly the elements and vandalism gnawed away at the site. Fortunately there were some souvenir hunters who had salvaged some materials for posterity, but some materials that would be of particular historic value have been destroyed or lost forever. In 1940 a retired judge, Sam Merrill, moved to Altadena and in a year had begun blazing a new trail to the Echo promontory. The trail, which originally lead up the hill from a point between the Las Flores and Rubio canyons, was linked with the lower section of the Mount Lowe Eight to become all part of the Sam Merrill trail. The trailhead had been moved over to Lake Avenue near the Cobb Estate gates at the time the Rubio Estates development went in in the 60's. |
The grounds on Echo had become overgrown with the natural chaparral found in the Altadena foothills, but the Italian Cypress seen in the distance were planted in the opening where the Casino once stood by the Daughters of the Golden West who made a special dedication to the Sam Merrill trail in 1941. In the right of the photo can be seen the round rim of a 15-foot deep reservoir. It stood right outside the back windows of the Echo Mounatin House dining wing. For years its use went unexplained, but a photograph recently surfaced that showed it equipped with a conical roof and an array of sprinklers which are used to release impurities and gases into the air in order to prepare water for drinking. The reservoir did sit above the level of the Chalet to which it may have supplied water. It may also have provided water to the Rubio Pavilion, or may even be the one that provided the hydraulic power for the generators below. |
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The next two photos to the left show the chasms left by displaced trestles. The rails have been scrapped and the wood has been either burned or washed away. |
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In some places the piers were laid in cut away rock, and in others concrete was poured. Eventually these chasms were circumvented by hiking trails that allowed visitors to hike to the ruins. Many of these trails were, and have been over the years, maintained by scout troops as Eagle projects. |
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The right-of-way stood untouched for years as power poles, overhead wiring, ties and rails lay right where the P&E had left them. But as the 60's approached that all changed. The Forestry Service began a rigorous drive of providing service byways into the back areas. Part of this was obviously due to the shift in fire suppression access which would no longer require maintaining huge scarring fire breaks in the front range ridges. |
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The right-of-way already provided a great inroad to the back country that could be accessed and widened with a little dynamiting. Here the Granite Gate lays just prior to a little widening that could accommodate an emergency vehicle. |